LE MOINE RED 2015 BY BURGHOUND
- 2015 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru red (92-95)
- 2015 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru red (92-95)
- 2015 Clos St. Denis Grand Cru red (92-94)
- 2015 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru red (93-96)
- 2015 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru red (93-95)
- 2015 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Amoureuses” 1er red (92-95)
- 2015 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru red (92-95)
- 2015 Musigny Grand Cru red (94-96)
- 2015 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Baudes” 1er red (91-93)
- 2015 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Charmes” 1er red (90-93)
- 2015 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Fuées” 1er red (92-94)
- 2015 Chambolle-Musigny “Haut Doix” 1er red (90-92)
- 2015 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru red (89-92)
- 2015 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru red (92-94)
- 2015 Corton-Renardes Grand Cru red (92-94)
- 2015 Echézeaux Grand Cru red (91-94)
- 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin “Cazetiers” 1er red (92-95)
- 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Champeaux” 1er red (90-93)
- 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin “Aux Combottes” 1er red (90-92)
- 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin “Estournelles St. Jacques” 1er red (91-94)
- 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques” 1er red NR
- 2015 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru red (93-95)
- 2015 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru red NR
- 2015 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru red (89-92?)
- 2015 Nuits St. Georges “Aux Boudots” 1er red (91-94)
- 2015 Nuits St. Georges “Les Cailles” 1er red (91-94)
- 2015 Nuits St. Georges “Les St. Georges” 1er red (91-94)
- 2015 Nuits St. Georges “Les Vaucrains” 1er red (92-95)
- 2015 Pommard “Les Epenots” 1er red (91-93)
- 2015 Pommard “Les Grands Epenots” 1er red (91-93)
- 2015 Pommard “Les Rugiens” 1er red (90-93)
- 2015 Richebourg Grand Cru red (93-96)
- 2015 Volnay “Les Caillerets” 1er red (92-95)
- 2015 Volnay “Les Chanlins” 1er red (91-94)
- 2015 Volnay “Clos des Chênes” 1er red (91-94)
- 2015 Volnay “Santenots” 1er red (92-94)
- 2015 Vosne-Romanée “Beaux Monts” 1er red (92-94)
- 2015 Vosne-Romanée “Les Malconsorts” 1er red (92-94)
- 2015 Vosne-Romanée “Petits Monts” 1er red (92-95)
- 2015 Vosne-Romanée “Les Suchots” 1er red (92-94)
- 2015 Beaune “Clos des Mouches” 1er red (88-91)
Mounir and Rotem Saouma established their two-person micro-négoce in 1999 that focuses exclusively on the very best 1ers and grands crus in both red and white. They describe the 2015 as a “vintage that in our view is somewhat misunderstood in the sense that it is not nearly as forward and easy as some people seem to think. Yes, the wines are ripe but they are not at all like 2003 or 2009 and moreover, they absolutely need a long élevage as month by month the wines, and we’re speaking as much of the whites as the reds, have freshened and in particular, the terroir transparency continues to become clearer and clearer. 2015 is a great vintage but what is so interesting from our perspective is that it’s already been announced as a great vintage for the reds but in time the whites are going to be just as respected.” As is often the case at this address, at the time of my February visit the wines had been neither racked nor sulfured and as such many were noticeably reduced. I appreciate that this makes for boring tasting notes when reduction is constantly being cited as suppressing the fruit but if that is what I find then it is incumbent upon me to say so. I underscore that reduction in cask does not necessarily mean that the wine will be reduced in bottle so you shouldn’t be unduly concerned by this. In terms of enjoying the Le Moine wines, one point that bears mentioning is that the wines always have noticeable CO2 and thus they should absolutely be decanted.
2015 Mazis-Chambertin: (from both Mazis-Haut and Bas). Moderate wood surrounds the liqueur-like nose that combines notes of various red berries, pungent earth and sauvage nuances. There is outstanding power, concentration and punch to the big-bodied and impressively constituted flavors that brim with both dry extract and minerality on the driving finish. This is one of those wines that is clearly built-to-age yet there is so much sap that it could be approached young. (92-95)/2032+
2015 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze: Reduction. This exhibits that beguiling quality of inner mouth perfume on the sleek, intense, stony and beautifully delineated broad-shouldered flavors that display plenty of power and drive on the palate coating finish that goes on and on. Like the Mazis, this is very much built-to-age yet the copious dry extract will permit this to be enjoyed on the younger side. That said, if you wish to see this at its peak, it’s a ‘buy and forget’ wine. (93-95)/2035+
2015 Clos de Vougeot: A notably ripe yet attractively fresh nose is made up of spice, earth, plum liqueur and a hint of smoked meat. The wonderfully sleek, concentrated and muscular flavors possess unusually good refinement in the context of what is typical for the appellation while delivering breathtakingly good persistence on the well-balanced finish. 2015 was a great vintage for Clos de Vougeot and this example will only add to its renown. Bravo! (93-96)/2035+
2015 Echézeaux: (from En Orveaux). Reduction. The medium-bodied flavors possess good volume and punch along with a lovely bead of minerality while concluding in a textured, mouth coating and relatively powerful finish. This is perhaps not quite as refined as it usually is but that is a very minor nit in what is otherwise a fine Ech. (91-94)/2027+
2015 Grands Echézeaux: An ultra-spicy if somewhat high-toned nose is composed primarily of pomegranate liqueur and exotic Asian-style tea scents. The rich, powerful and muscular flavors are imposingly-scaled while the abundance of dry extract makes for a velvety mouth feel, all wrapped in a youthfully austere and gorgeously long finale. Like several wines in the range, this is very much built for the long-term and is going to need at least a decade of patience and should amply repay 20 or perhaps even more. (93-95)/2035+
2015 Richebourg: Reduction dominates the fruit today. The dense, muscular and very serious, indeed even brooding big-bodied flavors possess outstanding power and punch along with an abundance of both dry extract and minerality that adds a bit of lift to the youthfully austere, focused and hugely long finale. This is an imposing but graceful wine that is presently exceptionally firm and like the Grands Echézeaux, one that is going to need a great deal of forbearance. (93-96)/2035+
2015 Bonnes Mares: (from both Chambolle and Morey). An agreeably fresh nose speaks of plum, red currant, earth and discreet spice wisps. There is excellent volume and mid-palate concentration to the obviously powerful and muscular flavors that are generously proportioned yet quite serious as the supporting tannins on the explosively long finish are firm to the point of making it quite clear that this will not be an especially good candidate for early consumption. (92-95)/2035+
2015 Musigny: Reduction. Here too there is superb concentration and power yet even more refinement to the mineral-driven and mouth coating finish that delivers unbelievably fine length. What I find so interesting about this monument of a wine is how this much power and punch can be delivered with unmatched refinement. In a word, brilliant. (94-96)/2035+
2015 Beaune “Clos des Mouches”: A pure and very pretty nose combines various red berries with those of soft earth and lilac aromas. The exceptionally rich and succulent flavors possess an attractive mouth feel as well as lovely density while offering fine length on the ever-so-mildly warm finish. If this can add depth with time in bottle it should merit the upper end of my projected range. (88-91)/2023+
2015 Pommard “Les Rugiens”: (from both upper and lower). A wonderfully fresh nose reflects notes of relatively high-toned nose of red cherry, earth and a wide range of floral elements. There is fine richness, density and power to the palate coating flavors that display plenty of minerality on the balanced and lingering finish. This is relatively refined in the context of what is typical for Rugiens thanks to the firm but fine-grained tannins. (90-93)/2027+
2015 Pommard “Les Epenots”: (from Petits Epenots). Reduction presently dominates the nose though there is good freshness to the caressing and generously proportioned medium-bodied flavors that also possess excellent mid-palate concentration, all wrapped in a powerful yet refined and slightly more complex finale. Lovely. (91-93)/2027+
2015 Pommard “Les Grands Epenots”: A ripe, fresh and pure array is composed by notes of red and dark pinot fruit, plum and violet. There is a bit more volume and richness to the full-bodied and more powerful big-bodied flavors that manage to retain an appealing precision that carries over to the mouth coating, complex and solidly persistent finish. (91-93)/2027+
2015 Volnay “Les Chanlins”: There is just enough reduction to push the underlying fruit the background. As one would reasonably expect the mouth feel of the middle weight flavors is finer and more mineral-driven though the natural muscularity comes up quickly on the saline, energetic and wonderfully long finish. This is terrific and built-to-age. (91-94)/2027+
2015 Volnay “Clos des Chênes”: A cool and exceptionally pretty nose offers up essence of red cherry, violet and a hint of plum. The powerful and focused but unusually elegant middle weight plus flavors brim with an almost aggressive minerality on the delineated, balanced, long and very firm finale. This beauty is definitely going to need extended cellaring. (91-94)/2030+
2015 Volnay “Santenots”: This is aromatically similar to the Clos des Chênes if just a hair more complex and the heightened depth continues onto the dense, powerful and impressively-scaled flavors that despite the size and weight the mouth feel remains sleek and refined on the equally firm, long and built-to-age finale. Here too plenty of patience required. (92-94)/2030+
2015 Volnay “Les Caillerets”: Reduction. The intensely mineral-driven, powerful, focused and explosive flavors remain supremely elegant and refined, all wrapped in an impeccably well-balanced and gorgeously long finale. This is textbook Caillerets though pretty as it is, the very fine but very dense tannins guarantee that this is going to require extended bottle age before it arrives at its peak. (92-95)/2030+
2015 Corton-Bressandes: A ripe yet quite fresh nose is comprised by notes of red cherry liqueur, earth, lilac and a whisper of the sauvage. The exceptionally rich medium weight plus flavors possess a caressing mouth feel thanks to the abundance of sappy dry extract that also serves to buffer the markedly firm, powerful and memorably persistent finish. This too is very much built-to-age and is without question going to need it. (92-94)/2032+
2015 Corton-Renardes: A more deeply pitched assortment of aromas includes notes of cassis, plum, forest floor and plenty of freshly turned earth nuances. There is excellent volume to the relatively refined flavors that possess an almost lacy mid-palate yet the finish is muscular and robust as well as stirringly persistent. What I find interesting is how this very firmly structured Corton manages to avoid any hint of its typical youthful austerity. (92-94)/2033+
2015 Nuits St. Georges “Les Cailles”: Reduction. This is a big Les Cailles with markedly more muscle than usual along with excellent mid-palate concentration and minerality along with noticeably rusticity on the very firm but balanced and beautifully long finish. I wouldn’t describe this as a textbook example as Les Cailles is rarely rustic but on the other hand, it’s also rarely as powerful as this one which is quite impressive in its fashion. (91-94)/2030+
2015 Nuits St. Georges “Les St. Georges”: A very ripe yet attractively fresh nose combines liqueur-like aromas of red currant, spice, violet, earth and game. There is exceptionally good richness and volume to the concentrated, powerful and serious flavors that possess a driving minerality on the moderately austere, structured and remarkably persistent finale. This too is absolutely going to require a long snooze in a cool cellar. (91-94)/2032+
2015 Nuits St. Georges “Les Vaucrains”: Reduction. As is usually the case, this is even bigger and more powerful if somewhat less refined than the Les St. Georges and Les Cailles with seemingly an endless reserve of dry extract and that’s a very good thing because the supporting tannins are dense to the point of being almost rigid on the austere, very backward and extraordinarily long finish. This is breathtakingly good but unless you’re going to age this borderline massive effort for at least a decade it’s pointless to buy it. (92-95)/2035+
2015 Nuits St. Georges “Aux Boudots”: Reduction. This is also a big and concentrated wine though to be clear, this is not nearly as massive as the Vaucrains. Notwithstanding that, there is plenty of punch and power to the subtly mineral-inflected flavors that culminate in a balanced, firm and attractively textured finale. Lovely. (91-94)/2027+
2015 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Champeaux”: Reduction. The natural refinement of a classic Champeaux is on display with the sleek, focused and intense middle weight flavors that possess fine precision and a subtle minerality on the vibrant, lingering and solidly constituted finish. This should be approachable after only 5 to 7 years if desired. (90-93)/2025+
2015 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques”: This is very firmly reduced and thus very difficult to assess. Moreover the ultra-rich and concentrated flavors terminate in a palate saturating finish that is distinctly animale in character, in fact to the point that it appears like brett. This is impossible to read with confidence today and I would prefer not to guess whether this will clean up or not. Not Rated.
2015 Gevrey-Chambertin “Aux Combottes”: Reduction. The lilting and wonderfully refined flavors possess a lovely sense of underlying tension as well as refinement before concluding in a lightly mineral-inflected finish where a hint of warmth arises. This is certainly very pretty but lacks the sheer depth of the best of these Gevrey 1ers. (90-92)/2025+
2015 Gevrey-Chambertin “Estournelles St. Jacques”: Reduction but it’s light enough that I very much doubt that it will last. Otherwise there is a wonderfully refined and elegant mouth feel to the pure, lacy and mineral-inflected flavors that possess a beguiling sense of tension that also adds lift to the harmonious and Zen-like finale. I love the delivery here. (91-94)/2027+
2015 Gevrey-Chambertin “Cazetiers”: Reduction. As is virtually always the case, the broad-shouldered flavors are bigger, richer, bolder and more powerful if a good deal less refined on the mouth coating finish that is shaped by dense and mildly rustic tannins and superb complexity. Cazetiers rarely gets a lot better than this built-to-age example. (92-95)/2030+
2015 Vosne-Romanée “Les Suchots”: (from the upper portion of the vineyard). An exuberantly spicy nose reflects liqueur-like aromas of plum, black cherry, anise and sandalwood. The mouth coating and velvet-textured medium-bodied flavors possess exceptionally good richness before concluding in a highly seductive finish because while it’s firm, the sap renders the supporting structure to be all but invisible. This is very Suchots in style and it should be approachable young. (92-94)/2027+
2015 Vosne-Romanée “Beaux Monts”: An attractively fresh nose merges overtly floral and spicy aromas with those of ripe red and dark pinot fruit that is trimmed is exotic Asian-style tea nuances. There is less volume but more minerality to the focused middle weight flavors that possess a notably sleek mouth feel while delivering excellent persistence on the well-balanced finale. This is at once firmer yet classier and should amply reward extended cellaring. (92-94)/2030+
2015 Vosne-Romanée “Petits Monts”: Like the Vosne-Romanée “Beaux Monts”, this is wonderfully fresh and highly aromatic with its violet, lilac, rose petal and orange pekoe tea scents that include both red and dark currant. There is a bit more size, weight and controlled power to the slightly less mineral-inflected flavors that exhibit a taut muscularity on the dusty, harmonious and strikingly persistent finale. This is terrific and very much built-to-age, indeed it’s like a smaller version of a fine Riche. (92-95)/2030+
2015 Vosne-Romanée “Les Malconsorts”: A pungent nose of wood and reductive notes introduces the big-bodied, powerful and almost aggressively mineral-driven flavors that brim with dry extract that helps to buffer the explosively long and youthfully austere finish that isn’t quite as well-balanced as that of the Petits Monts. Still this is most impressive though note well that it’s very structured and is going to require extended cellaring. (92-94)/2035+
2015 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Fuées”: Attractively layered aromas of plum, black cherry, cassis and anise are trimmed in just enough wood to notice. The rich and relatively full-bodied flavors are at once powerful and tautly muscular yet refined while delivering outstanding depth and length on the mineral-driven finish. Good stuff and built-to-age. (92-94)/2027+
2015 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Baudes”: This is aromatically even fresher if a touch less complex with its ripe but cool array of cassis, plum, violet and soft tea nuances. The exceptionally rich, suave and full-bodied flavors are even more powerful if less mineral-driven, all wrapped in an impressively long finish. As one would reasonably expect, this is less refined than the Fuées but it certainly doesn’t lack for punch or volume. (91-93)/2027+
2015 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Charmes”: Reduction and wood presently dominate the fruit. On the plus side there is a wonderful verve and freshness in the mouth as there is no heaviness to the full-bodied, suave and concentrated medium weight flavors that culminate in a dusty, mouth coating and intense finale. While it would not be accurate to describe this as rustic, it would be fair to observe that it’s somewhat less refined than usual. (90-93)/2027+
2015 Chambolle-Musigny “Haut Doix”: Reduction. The sleeker though less voluminous and rich medium weight flavors compensate by having more minerality and delineation on the lingering finish where a hint of bitter cherry arises. This is certainly pretty but at present it is the least complex of these Chambolle 1ers. (90-92)/2027+
2015 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Amoureuses”: A restrained, elegant and admirably pure nose reluctantly offers up beautifully layered aromas of red and dark berry liqueur, lilac, spiced tea and a hint of sandalwood. There is a vaguely exotic character to the rich and impressively concentrated flavors that display ample minerality on the sappy, balanced and strikingly persistent finish. This is an exercise in harmony and understatement though make no mistake, there is a firm tannic spine underlying the grace and lace mouth feel and as such, this is going to require plenty of cellar time. (92-95)/2030+
2015 Clos St. Denis: (from 90+ year old vines). Firm reduction blocks an evaluation of the nose. Otherwise the sleek and ultra-refined middle weight flavors possess lovely mid-palate concentration as well as an abundance of dry extract that coats the palate and buffers the moderately firm tannins on the Zen-like finish. Textbook CSD. (92-94)/2027+
2015 Clos de la Roche: This is also quite firmly reduced. As is typically the case there is more size, weight and muscle to the broad-shouldered flavors that possess first-rate mid-palate concentration that pushes the imposingly resolute tannins to the background on the strikingly persistent finish. This is certainly a big wine and it doesn’t have the refinement of the CSD but it does have more overall depth, at least today – note however that patience is absolutely necessary. (92-95)/2033+
2015 Charmes-Chambertin: (from both Charmes and Mazoyères). An exceptionally ripe and pungent nose displays plenty of wood along with notes of mocha, warm earth and a whiff of prune. Consistent with the nose the palate impression is super-rich with its opulent yet powerful texture that manages to remain vibrant on the impressively long finish. This is not without positive points but I can’t say the nose is appealing and the overall impression is borderline over-the-top. (89-92)/2027+
2015 Griotte-Chambertin: The malolactic fermentation was not finished at the time of my visit and while I can say that this seems very promising based on the underlying raw material, it is a firm Burghound policy that wines that have not concluded their malos are not evaluated. Not Rated. 2015 Latricières-Chambertin: A distinctly curious nose combines minty notes of menthol and spearmint on the otherwise more typical earthy red berry fruit aromas. The mint character is present in the mouth a well and while there is fine power, punch and minerality to the middle weight flavors, I can only observe that this is a very odd wine. I underscore that this is not a bad or flawed wine but is definitely odd. (89-92?)/2027+ |
