{"id":1633,"date":"2026-06-25T21:22:02","date_gmt":"2026-06-25T19:22:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/lucienlemoine.com\/?p=1633"},"modified":"2026-06-25T21:24:07","modified_gmt":"2026-06-25T19:24:07","slug":"le-moine-white-2023-by-burghound","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/lucienlemoine.com\/en\/news\/2026\/le-moine-white-2023-by-burghound\/","title":{"rendered":"LE MOINE WHITE 2023 BY BURGHOUND"},"content":{"rendered":"<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.burghound.com\/\">2023 B\u00e2tard-Montrachet Grand Cru white (92-94)<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.burghound.com\/vineyard-education-tours-2025\/\">2023 Chablis \u00ab Mont de Milieu\u00a0\u00bb 1er white (91-93)<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.burghound.com\/vineyard-education-tours-2025\/\">2023 Chablis \u2013 Les preuses Grand Cru white (91-94)<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.burghound.com\/vineyard-education-tours-2025\/\">2023 Chassagne-Montrachet \u00ab\u00a0Caillerets\u00a0\u00bb 1er white (90-93)<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.burghound.com\/vineyard-education-tours-2025\/\">2023 Chassagne-Montrachet \u00ab\u00a0La Roman\u00e9e\u00a0\u00bb 1er white (90-93)<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.burghound.com\/vineyard-education-tours-2025\/\">2023 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru white (90-93)<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.burghound.com\/vineyard-education-tours-2025\/\">2023 Ladoix \u00ab\u00a0Les Gr\u00e9chons\u00a0\u00bb 1er white (88-90)<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.burghound.com\/vineyard-education-tours-2025\/\">2023 Meursault \u00ab\u00a0Charmes\u00a0\u00bb 1er white (90-92)<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.burghound.com\/vineyard-education-tours-2025\/\">2023 Meusault \u00ab\u00a0Perri\u00e8res\u00a0\u00bb 1<sup>er<\/sup>\u00a0white (91-93)<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.burghound.com\/vineyard-education-tours-2025\/\">2023 Montrachet Grand Cru white NR<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.burghound.com\/vineyard-education-tours-2025\/\">2023 Puligny-Montrachet \u00ab\u00a0Les Caillerets\u00a0\u00bb 1er white (90-92)<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.burghound.com\/vineyard-education-tours-2025\/\">2023 Puligny-Montrachet \u00ab\u00a0Garenne\u00a0\u00bb 1er white (91-93)<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Mounir and Rotem Saouma established their two-person&nbsp;<em>micro-n\u00e9goce&nbsp;<\/em>in 1999 that focuses almost exclusively on the very best 1ers and grand crus in both red and white. With respect to 2023, Mounir told me that \u201cit is a vintage of excess in every sense of the term. We again had, at least from a historical perspective, an extreme growing season if perhaps not quite as extreme as those of several other recent vintages. Yields were high everywhere, alcohols were generous, acidities were lowish without being actually low and despite all of this, I believe 2023 is an exceptionally good vintage. One of the all-time greats? No, but certainly as good as any number of vintages over the past 20 years and better than many. Moreover, the best aspect of 2023 is that it\u2019s certainly ripe but the wines remain fresh and superbly transparent. I genuinely believe that the wines are going to surprise a lot of naysayers in time.\u201d As a more general comment about the Le Moine whites, it\u2019s important to know that they will not be bottled until about November 2025, or a full 27 months after the harvest, which is very unusual in modern Burgundy. This is not mere whimsey as Saouma\u2019s view is that a long&nbsp;<em>\u00e9levage&nbsp;<\/em>with no added protection allows anything that can oxidize to do so and thus fall out naturally rather than being filtered or fined out (or more concerning, to actually oxidize in the bottle). As a result, they note that the colors of their whites arealways deeper yellow than would be considered typical, at least outside of peculiar vintages such as 2003. They explain that because their wines are expressly built to age and are always bottled with elevated CO2 levels (~1000 mm) that they should be decanted. Moreover, they argue that their whites need a minimum of 10 years of bottle age before they\u2019re ready so that if you want to try one before that, be sure to decant it.They further advise that between trying a bottle young or in middle age, younger is better. One other key aspect of the Le Moine whites bears mentioning in this discussion is the current divide in the wine world today between what are referred to as reductive and oxidative styles of winemaking. The vast majority of Burgundians are in the former camp but the Le Moine wines are in the latter. Note carefully that oxidative winemaking in this case is a bit of a misnomer because it does not mean that the process results in oxidative wines, only that the winemaking encourages oxidizable elements in the wine to oxidize and precipitate out, hence the name. This can occur during and\/or just after the pressing or it can occur during the&nbsp;<em>\u00e9levage<\/em>, or in a few cases both. Mounir Saouma argues that premox could be prevented altogether if you take away the wine\u2019s ability to oxidize and that is what he is attempting to do with his totally non-interventionist approach. This is entirely laudable, and logical, so far as it goes. As long-time readers have seen me remark many times over the years, there is no free lunch in winemaking, meaning that every action, or inaction, has a consequence and that most wines are the way that they are based on a series of winemaking compromises. Well, the compromise in this case is that the style of the Le Moine whites definitely appears oxidative yet the wines are stable. The critical point for you as informed Burgundy consumers is to decide whether you like the Le Moine style as it is indisputably particular and as a natural consequence, controversial. But particular does not necessarily mean flawed or uninteresting, only that you may or may not like it. If you have never tried a bottle of the Le Moine whites, then I strongly suggest that you do. I all but guarantee that you will find the wines to be of high quality but that you may or may not be attracted to the style because the wines often have aromas that speak of cider and aged yellow orchard fruit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Some love those characters, and some do not, and this is part of what makes individual domaine styles so interesting. While<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>not quite an exact comparison, if your taste in Champagne runs to the Selosses style, then you may well enjoy the Le Moine whites. I would also add that because none of the wines had been racked after completion of the malos, many thus exhibited&nbsp;lactic aromas and were full of gas. This of course complicates their evaluation and thus in some cases my projected rangesshould be viewed as preliminary. However, in all cases that are not specifically excepted, my ranges assume that any odd&nbsp;aromas will dissipate before the wines are bottled.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>2023 Ladoix \u201cLes Gr\u00e9chons\u201d:<\/strong>&nbsp;Firm reduction renders the nose difficult to assess though there is good freshness and vibrancy to the very rich, even opulent, medium-bodied flavors that are at once caressing but punchy, all wrapped in alingering citrus-tinged finale. This needs depth so a few years of keeping are recommended. (88-90)\/2028+<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>2023 Puligny-Montrachet \u201cLes Caillerets\u201d:<\/strong>&nbsp;Here too the nose is firmly reduced and unreadable at present. Otherwise, the notably finer and more mineral-driven middle weight flavors display excellent cut and delineation on the youthfully austere finale that is suffused with a prominent bitter zest character. (90-92)\/2031+<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>2023 Puligny-Montrachet \u201cGarenne\u201d:<\/strong>&nbsp;Cool, airy and pure aromas include those of Granny Smith apple, lemon rind, crushed fennel and a floral top note. The rich, generously proportioned and caressing medium weight flavors also exude evident minerality on the overtly citrusy bone-dry finish that exhibits impressive persistence on the well-balanced and firm finale. Fine quality here and worth checking out. (91-93)\/2033+<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>2023 Chassagne-Montrachet \u201cLa Roman\u00e9e\u201d:<\/strong>&nbsp;An admirably discreet application of wood sets off vaguely exotic aromas of apple and pear compote, white peach and a suggestion of passion fruit. The medium-bodied and vibrant flavors are rich to the point of opulence while the balance is maintained by bright acidity on the long and surprisingly rustic finish that is borderline tannic. This offers solid quality though in what I would describe as an old school style. (90-93)\/2033+<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>2023 Chassagne-Montrachet \u201cCaillerets\u201d:<\/strong>&nbsp;Firm reduction once again overshadows the fruit. On the palate though there is a highly seductive texture to the vibrant middle weight flavors that are both succulent and dense, all wrapped in a lightly stony saliva-inducing finish that is impeccably well-balanced and long. This well-made effort could use better depth so at least moderate cellaring is in order. (90-93)\/2031+<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>2023 Chablis \u201cMont de Milieu\u201d:<\/strong>&nbsp;There is a cool exoticism to the nose of jasmine tea, orange peel, white peach and just enough Chablis character to be persuasive. There is excellent volume and mid-palate density to the solidly powerful and sappy medium-bodied flavors that conclude in a bone-dry, long and balanced finale. This also needs to develop better depth but given the potential aging curve, that should not be an issue. (91-93)\/2033+<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>2023 Meursault \u201cCharmes\u201d:<\/strong>&nbsp;An exuberantly floral-suffused nose offers up aromas of white orchard fruit, citrus rind and pretty spice wisps. There is impressive density to the medium weight flavors that possess fine length, if somewhat limited depth, on<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>the otherwise nicely balanced finale. (90-92)\/2031+<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>2023 Meursault \u201cPerri\u00e8res\u201d:<\/strong>&nbsp;Cool, airy and restrained aromas are composed by smoky notes of wet Granny Smith apples, white flowers, lemon-lime and a touch of crushed anise. The relatively dense flavors possess good power and an almost<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>pungent minerality that seems to build on the highly persistent citrus-inflected and tightly wound finale. This also could use better depth but again, that should simply be a matter of exercising some patience. (91-93)\/2033+<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>2023 Chablis \u2013 Les Preuses:<\/strong>&nbsp;This is even more exuberantly floral-suffused with its ripe and attractively layered nose that also offers enough Chablis typicity to be convincing. There is excellent richness to the very generously proportioned, plump and opulent larger-scaled flavors that manage to be at once succulent yet quite punchy before culminate in a bright lemon-tinged, bone-dry and moderately austere finale. This is very definitely built for the longer-term and a wine that would be largely pointless to open young. (91-94)\/2035+<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>2023 Corton-Charlemagne:<\/strong>&nbsp;(from vines in Pernand and Aloxe). Cool, airy and pure aromas include those of just grated citrus, Granny Smith apple, wet stone and a lovely array of spice nuances. On the palate the exceptionally rich, even lavish, bigbodied flavors are overtly powerful while displaying fine length on the balanced, rustic and overtly tannic finale. Much like the La Roman\u00e9e, this is very much old school in style. (90-93)\/2031+<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>2023 B\u00e2tard-Montrachet:<\/strong>&nbsp;(from both Chassagne and Puligny fruit). Ripe aromas are comprised by pear and apple compote along with an impressive range of floral and spice nuances. Here too the palate impression of the broad-shouldered flavors is very generously proportioned, rich and opulent, which contrasts markedly with the racy, lemony and moderately austere finale.I like the balance though note well that this too is quite compact and will need extended patience. (92-94)\/2035+<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>2023 Montrachet:<\/strong>&nbsp;(also from both Chassagne and Puligny fruit). Residual secondary fermentation aromas are still present on the reduced nose and they can also be found on the concentrated, powerful and hugely long finish.&nbsp;Even so, this is not in an&nbsp;appropriate condition to be evaluated.&nbsp;Not Rated.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Mounir and Rotem Saouma established their two-person&nbsp;micro-n\u00e9goce&nbsp;in 1999 that focuses almost exclusively on the very best 1ers and grand crus in both red and white. With respect to 2023, Mounir told me that \u201cit is a vintage of excess in every sense of the term. We again had, at least from a historical perspective, an [&hellip;]<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":595,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"single-narrow-centered","format":"standard","meta":{"_editorskit_title_hidden":false,"_editorskit_reading_time":0,"_editorskit_is_block_options_detached":false,"_editorskit_block_options_position":"{}","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v23.7 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>LE MOINE WHITE 2023 BY BURGHOUND - Lucien Le Moine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/lucienlemoine.com\/en\/news\/2026\/le-moine-white-2023-by-burghound\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"LE MOINE WHITE 2023 BY BURGHOUND - Lucien Le Moine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Mounir and Rotem Saouma established their two-person&nbsp;micro-n\u00e9goce&nbsp;in 1999 that focuses almost exclusively on the very best 1ers and grand crus in both red and white. 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Lucien Le Moine","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/lucienlemoine.com\/en\/news\/2026\/le-moine-white-2023-by-burghound\/","og_locale":"en_US","og_type":"article","og_title":"LE MOINE WHITE 2023 BY BURGHOUND - Lucien Le Moine","og_description":"Mounir and Rotem Saouma established their two-person&nbsp;micro-n\u00e9goce&nbsp;in 1999 that focuses almost exclusively on the very best 1ers and grand crus in both red and white. 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