{"id":558,"date":"2024-01-04T18:14:10","date_gmt":"2024-01-04T17:14:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/lucienlemoine.com\/?p=558"},"modified":"2024-01-04T18:18:02","modified_gmt":"2024-01-04T17:18:02","slug":"en-attendant-la-revolution-le-point-special-vin-no-1721-sep-8-2005","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/lucienlemoine.com\/en\/news\/2024\/en-attendant-la-revolution-le-point-special-vin-no-1721-sep-8-2005\/","title":{"rendered":"EN ATTENDANT LA REVOLUTION – Le Point Special Vin, No. 1721, Sep. 8, 2005"},"content":{"rendered":"

Les producteurs de vin fran\u00e7ais se posent bien des questions sur leur activit\u00e9. Mais se pr\u00e9occupent-ils des probl\u00e8mes des consommateurs, perdus face \u00e0 l’offre? Il est temps de se remettre en question.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Voici, pour commencer, trois histoires optimistes. La premi\u00e8re est celle de Mounir Saouma et Rotem Brakin. Mounir et Rotem sont d’heureux n\u00e9gociants \u00e9leveurs de vins install\u00e9s \u00e0 Beaune, en C\u00f4te-d’Or, respect\u00e9s de leurs confr\u00e8res, adoub\u00e9s par les plus grands noms de la Bourgogne. Au Salon Vinexpo, en juin, \u00e0 Bordeaux, ils squattaient le stand des vins de l’\u00eele de Beaut\u00e9, ce qui n’a pas grand-chose \u00e0 voir, sauf l’amiti\u00e9. Les Corses voyaient ainsi d\u00e9filer acheteurs am\u00e9ricains et grands noms de la sommellerie : Jean-Michel Thomas, du tr\u00e8s chic et tr\u00e8s cher Burj Al-Arab \u00e0 Duba\u00ef, ou Guillaume Joubin, caviste de la pr\u00e9sidence de la R\u00e9publique (fran\u00e7aise). Mounir a quitt\u00e9 le Liban \u00e0 l’\u00e2ge de 22 ans, en 1989, \u00e0 l’occasion d’une des grandes secousses dont ce pays est coutumier. J’ai v\u00e9cu dans un monast\u00e8re pendant sept ans \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 de J\u00e9rusalem. C’est l\u00e0 que j’ai appris \u00e0 faire le vin, avec mon oncle, qui \u00e9tait le p\u00e8re abb\u00e9. Le monast\u00e8re a \u00e9t\u00e9 fond\u00e9 par C\u00eeteaux, cela m’a fait aimer le pinot noir et la Bourgogne. J’y venais souvent acheter des f\u00fbts, puis je m’y suis install\u00e9. Bernard Noblet, de la Roman\u00e9e-Conti, m’a beaucoup aid\u00e9. Pendant cinq ou six ans, j’ai pris des domaines en charge, comme le ch\u00e2teau de Chassagne. A c\u00f4t\u00e9, je m’amusais \u00e0 faire des vins selon les techniques anciennes, que j’avais apprises dans les livres des moines. Ces derniers venaient de Septfonds, dans l’Allier. Ils sont arriv\u00e9s \u00e0 J\u00e9rusalem en 1890 avec leurs livres et leurs pieds de vigne. On presse le raisin, on met tout en barriques, on ne soutire pas. On go\u00fbte, et quand on arr\u00eate de cracher, c’est que l’on n’est pas loin de la mise en bouteilles. On attend la pleine lune, car les lies d\u00e9posent bien, et on tire le vin sans utiliser de pompe. On le place dans une cuve pour qu’il se repose. On attend la prochaine lune, et on met en bouteilles sous vide… Dans le d\u00e9tail, c’est \u00e9videmment un peu plus compliqu\u00e9, et \u00e7a demande beaucoup de travail et de pr\u00e9cision. Les vignerons amis du couple, convi\u00e9s \u00e0 d\u00e9guster ces essais, ont trouv\u00e9 cela si bon et si original que la plupart ont accept\u00e9 de leur c\u00e9der des raisins dans de tr\u00e8s beaux crus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Les moines m’appelaient Lucien et mes copains, le moine. Quand, avec Rotem, on a cr\u00e9\u00e9 notre soci\u00e9t\u00e9, on lui a donn\u00e9 comme nom Lucien Le Moine. Aujourd’hui, Rotem et Mounir vinifient 38 crus bourguignons diff\u00e9rents. C’est une production limit\u00e9e: 70 barriques en 2004, 46 barriques et 15 000 bouteilles en 2003. Lesquelles bouteilles sont vendues cher et partent comme des petits pains, recherch\u00e9es par les plus grandes tables \u00e9toil\u00e9es de France et d’ailleurs. Belle qualit\u00e9, pr\u00e9cision dans l’\u00e9laboration – les f\u00fbts sont faits sur mesure, adapt\u00e9s \u00e0 chaque vin -, communication p\u00e9tillante et commercialisation intelligente… Certes, les volumes \u00e0 vendre sont faibles, et il est plus facile de placer du pommard Epenots (d\u00e9licieux), du vosne-roman\u00e9e Suchots (exceptionnel) ou du bonnes-mares (r\u00e9gliss\u00e9) que la production d’une coop\u00e9rative du Languedoc… Les objections, nous les connaissons. Mais des n\u00e9gociants \u00e9leveurs qui mettent la cl\u00e9 sous la porte, nous en connaissons aussi, et pas forc\u00e9ment dans des appellations mineures. Lucien Le Moine choisit ses clients.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jacques Dupont<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Les producteurs de vin fran\u00e7ais se posent bien des questions sur leur activit\u00e9. Mais se pr\u00e9occupent-ils des probl\u00e8mes des consommateurs, perdus face \u00e0 l’offre? Il est temps de se remettre en question. Voici, pour commencer, trois histoires optimistes. La premi\u00e8re est celle de Mounir Saouma et Rotem Brakin. Mounir et Rotem sont d’heureux n\u00e9gociants \u00e9leveurs […]<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"single-narrow-centered","format":"standard","meta":{"_editorskit_title_hidden":false,"_editorskit_reading_time":0,"_editorskit_is_block_options_detached":false,"_editorskit_block_options_position":"{}","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"\nEN ATTENDANT LA REVOLUTION - Le Point Special Vin, No. 1721, Sep. 8, 2005 - Lucien Le Moine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/lucienlemoine.com\/en\/news\/2024\/en-attendant-la-revolution-le-point-special-vin-no-1721-sep-8-2005\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"EN ATTENDANT LA REVOLUTION - Le Point Special Vin, No. 1721, Sep. 8, 2005 - Lucien Le Moine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Les producteurs de vin fran\u00e7ais se posent bien des questions sur leur activit\u00e9. 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