{"id":605,"date":"2024-01-04T20:01:54","date_gmt":"2024-01-04T19:01:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/lucienlemoine.com\/?p=605"},"modified":"2024-01-04T20:01:54","modified_gmt":"2024-01-04T19:01:54","slug":"2006-reds-are-extremely-appealing-and-charming-whites-are-exciting","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/lucienlemoine.com\/en\/news\/2024\/2006-reds-are-extremely-appealing-and-charming-whites-are-exciting\/","title":{"rendered":"2006 Reds Are Extremely Appealing and Charming. Whites are Exciting."},"content":{"rendered":"

I\u2019m back in Burgundy for a second look at the 2006 reds and whites. My first visit last June was an initial impression of the vintage as a whole. Now that the wines are at the end of their elevage, if not already bottled, I will be looking more closely at individual wines.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

…<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Later that afternoon found me at Lucien Le Moine, the boutique negociant on Beaune run by the charming Mounir Saouma and his wife Rotem Brakin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le Moine has now reached its capacity. In 2007, there will be 100 barrels from 50 different appellations in the cellar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Saouma feels that the 2006 will suffer in general, because 1.) It follows 2005 and 2.) There was botrytis in 2006, which tends to tarnish the vintage with a negative impression.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00ab\u00a0The noble rot in 2006 had nothing to do with the rot in 2004, 2001 or 2000,\u00a0\u00bb he pointed out. \u00ab\u00a0This clean, fruity botrytis is a major point in \u201906. For me it\u2019s a benefit, for some a defect.\u00a0\u00bb<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In contrast to some of the growers I visited last June, Saouma told me it was necessary to pick late in 2006, in order to get proper maturity and not be afraid of the botrytis. \u00ab\u00a0The difference between making something good and something great is taking risks,\u00a0\u00bb he explained.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Saouma also characterized 2006 as being two different wines between pressing and now at bottling. At pressing, they had very fruity, en primeur type of fruit, like Beaujolais Nouveau. They also were very tannic. \u201cThe keys were losing this simple fruity character and the tannins, so you have length and sweetness in the aftertaste,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the end, Saouma considers 2006 to be a very classic vintage for Burgundy, in that these are the typical wines from the terroirs in a northern climate, where often you must wait for the maturity late in the season. On the other hand, 2005 is a year where the vintage character is dominant, whose best feature is its ageability.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00ab\u00a02006 will be ready to drink sooner,\u00a0\u00bb he stated.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I tasted some very approachable, well-structured and balanced reds there, with detailed fruit, ample flesh and length. Some were still in barrel (in fact, a few were still finishing the malolactic conversion), others had been assembled in tank for bottling, and a few had been bottled 10 days ago.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

My favorites in the cellar are the following:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

From barrel, the Nuits-St.-Georges Les Vaucrains<\/strong>, showing sweet red currant, blackberry and licorice notes and both richness and structure (90-93); the black currant- and blackberry-infused Vosne-Roman\u00e9e Les Malconsorts<\/strong>, which builds nicely on the palate to a long, subtle finish (91-94); and the fresh, elegant Clos Vougeot<\/strong>, very well balanced with both red and black fruit flavors (90-93). The Chambertin-Clos de B\u00e8ze<\/strong> is very floral, offering rose and both wild and cultivated berry flavors. It\u2019s open and inviting at this stage, yet has a good tannic spine and plenty of finesse (91-94). The Richebourg<\/strong> is a deep well of red and black fruit, spice, hints of black pepper and licorice notes, with a long, sweet finish (91-94).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In tank for a week awaiting bottling, the Bonnes Mares <\/strong>displays an energy, with concentrated licorice, black currant and spice flavors. It combines power and finesse, ending in a long, licorice-tinged finish. The Lavaux-St.-Jacques<\/strong> has already been bottled. It\u2019s very expressive, exhibiting fruitcake, nut, mocha and spice notes, backed by a firm, tensile structure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The reds are extremely appealing and charming, however the whites, especially these listed, are exciting. From barrel, the Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets <\/strong>serves up a smoky, stone and lime blossom aromas that lead to citronella, honey and hazelnut flavors. The finish is long and minerally (90-93). The Meursault Perri\u00e8res<\/strong> is in tank, a mineral underpinning coursing through its veins. Lime blossom and citrus notes are persistent and this is fresh, salty and acidic at once, resonating with energy (92-95). Also from tank, the Corton-Charlemagne<\/strong> features a glorious nose of ripe apple, cinnamon, peach and loads of mineral. A masculine white, it\u2019s massive, tannic even and very long (90-93). The Chevalier-Montrachet<\/strong>, still resting in barrel, offers a totally seductive appeal. Very aromatic, with jasmine, lavender and lime blossom notes, a creamy texture with hints of vanilla and hazelnut and a terrific finish (93-96).<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I\u2019m back in Burgundy for a second look at the 2006 reds and whites. My first visit last June was an initial impression of the vintage as a whole. Now that the wines are at the end of their elevage, if not already bottled, I will be looking more closely at individual wines. … Later […]<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":219,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"single-narrow-centered","format":"standard","meta":{"_editorskit_title_hidden":false,"_editorskit_reading_time":0,"_editorskit_is_block_options_detached":false,"_editorskit_block_options_position":"{}","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"\n2006 Reds Are Extremely Appealing and Charming. 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