ROUGE 2009

  • 2009 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru red (93-96)
  • 2009 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru red (93-95)
  • 2009 Chambolle-Musigny “Amoureuses” 1er red (91-94)
  • 2009 Chambolle-Musigny “Charmes” 1er red (89-91)
  • 2009 Chambolle-Musigny “Haut Doix” 1er red (90-92)
  • 2009 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru red (91-93)
  • 2009 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru red (93-95)
  • 2009 Clos St. Denis Grand Cru red (92-94)
  • 2009 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru red (91-94)
  • 2009 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru red (92-95)
  • 2009 Corton-Renardes Grand Cru red (92-94)
  • 2009 Echézeaux Grand Cru red (90-93)
  • 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin “Cazetiers” 1er red (92-94)
  • 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin “Estournelles St. Jacques” 1er red (91-93)
  • 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques” 1er red (91-93)
  • 2009 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru red (92-95)
  • 2009 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru red (92-94)
  • 2009 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru red (93-95)
  • 2009 Morey St. Denis “Clos des Ormes” 1er red (89-92)
  • 2009 Morey St. Denis “Genevrières” 1er red (90-92)
  • 2009 Nuits St. Georges “Les Cailles” 1er red (90-93)
  • 2009 Nuits St. Georges “Les St. Georges” 1er red (90-93)
  • 2009 Nuits St. Georges “Vaucrains” 1er red (91-93)
  • 2009 Pommard “Epenots” 1er red (89-92)
  • 2009 Pommard “Les Grands Epenots” 1er red (90-92)
  • 2009 Pommard “Rugiens” 1er red (89-92)
  • 2009 Richebourg Grand Cru red (93-96)
  • 2009 Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru red (92-95)
  • 2009 Volnay “Caillerets” 1er red (91-93)
  • 2009 Volnay “Santenots” 1er red (90-92)
  • 2009 Vosne-Romanée “Gaudichots” 1er red (93-96)
  • 2009 Vosne-Romanée “Malconsorts” 1er red (92-94)
  • 2009 Vosne-Romanée “Suchots” 1er red (91-93)

Mounir and Rotem Saouma established their two-person micro-négoce in 1999. They describe the 2009 vintage as unique in that “typically, when you taste a pinot grape, you enjoy the juice and the pulp and then spit out the skin as it’s mildly astringent.

In 2009 the skins were sweet too. Which we believe is in a way representative of the entire vintage, which is to say that nothing was exaggerated. It’s the best vintage that we have ever seen and that includes 2005. The tenderness, finesse and terroir transparency are simply magnificent.” As you might reasonably expect from two people who focus on buying the best new wine that they can and then mature those wines in barrel, team Saouma told me that in 2009 the élevage was critical to each wine achieving its full potential. They explained that long contact with the lees was absolutely essential and thus they delayed the malos for as long as possible. Further, because the lees were so clean due to the overall top flight health of the fruit in 2009, there was really no risk in having extended lees contact. And consistent with their explanation, when I tasted the wines in February, now 18 months after the harvest, the ‘09s still had not been racked. The Le Moine ‘09s, like the ‘07s and ‘08s before them, are again most impressive though their sources in Gevrey and Vosne seem to be a cut above those in the other villages. One other point bears mentioning, which is that the wines always have noticeable residual CO2 in them and thus they should absolutely be decanted.

2009 Volnay “Santenots”: Strong reduction. Otherwise this is very Volnay in character with good minerality and volume to the precise, intense and delicious medium-bodied flavors that culminate in a serious, linear and persistent finish. This will require from 12 to 15 years to be at its best. (90-92)/2021+

2009 Volnay “Caillerets”: Here too the nose is strongly reduced. There is ample minerality and dry extract though to the stony, precise and refined flavors that culminate in a dry, clean, linear and pure finish that delivers outstanding persistence. A classy wine of harmony and style that is built to age. (91-93)/2021+

2009 Pommard “Rugiens”: A ripe but fresh nose speaks of plum, earth and wet stone nuances, all of which continue onto
the rich and relatively dense middle weight flavors that possess fine volume and a taut muscularity that also suffuses the long, intense and palate staining finish. This is not as complex as some in the range though this may come with bottle age and if so, the wine should merit the upper end of my predicted range. (89-92)/2019+

2009 Pommard “Epenots”: (from Petits Epenots). Strong reduction. There is wonderful richness and a velvety texture to the very ripe flavors that are shaped by the phenolically mature and firm tannins as well as a wonderfully persistent and enveloping finish. There isn’t the detail of the Rugiens but the finish offers slightly better length. A choice. (89-92)/2019+

2009 Pommard “Les Grands Epenots”: A complex and expressive nose combines aromas of plum, earth and red currant that introduce richer yet tighter and more precise big-bodied flavors blessed with an abundance of tannin-buffering dry extract that renders the very firm structure almost invisible. That said, this is also clearly built to age, indeed this will need all of 12 to 15 years to reach its apogee. (90-92)/2021+

2009 Morey St. Denis “Genavrières”: A deeply pitched and notably ripe nose offers up both red and dark berry fruit plus plenty of earth influence that transfers over to the rich and quite full-bodied flavors that evidence notes of spice and smoke on the firmly structured and admirably persistent finish. This is sauvage in character without being rustic. (90-92)/2021+

2009 Morey St. Denis “Clos des Ormes”: Here the red berry fruit also exhibits a nose of underbrush, earth and a spice component that leads to supple yet nicely detailed, round and utterly delicious flavors that possess very good depth on the sneaky long and quite subtle finish. An understated wine of harmony and balance. (89-92)/2021+

2009 Gevrey-Chambertin “Estournelles St. Jacques”: A cool red berry and kirsch-like nose also offers up notes of animale and stone that can be found on the elegant, pure and refined middle weight flavors brimming with more minerality on the detailed, understated and linear finish. This moderately austere effort is an exercise in harmony and is text book Estournelles. 91-93)/2021+

2009 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques”: Reduction. There is excellent verve though to the detached and restrained mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that possess strikingly good detail and focus on the mildly animale, linear and austere finish. This too is very Lavaut in character and should age extremely well as the balance and underlying material are impeccable. (91-93)/2024+

2009 Gevrey-Chambertin “Cazetiers”: A spicy, earthy and very sauvage nose of red and dark berry fruit plus stone notes leads to very rich, serious and tautly muscular flavors that display excellent power and volume and culminate in a deep, long and highly complex finish. This stunning effort will also require 15 to 20 years to arrive at its peak. (92-94)/2024+

2009 Nuits St. Georges “Les Cailles”: Moderate reduction blocks an evaluation of the nose. The detailed, intense and beautifully precise medium-bodied flavors possess good volume and fine length on the mocha-infused finish. Despite a high level of ripeness and extremely firm tannins this is essentially a wine of finesse and elegance. (90-93)/2024+

2009 Nuits St. Georges “Vaucrains”: Reduction. As one would expect, this is bigger, richer and more powerful with broadscaled and overtly muscular flavors that are extremely serious and somber, all wrapped in a palate staining and imposingly structured finish that exhibits huge length. There isn’t the refinement of the Les Cailles or Les St. Georges but for fans of power Burgundy, this delivers. (91-93)/2026+

2009 Nuits St. Georges “Les St. Georges”: Reduction. The more elegant and attractively textured flavors possess less of a velvety quality and more rigor to the rich, complex and beautifully detailed finish that oozes plenty of mouth coating extract and a mocha character. This is riper than I personally prefer but quite good all the same. (90-93)/2021+

2009 Chambolle-Musigny “Charmes”: A high-toned and appealingly elegant nose features aromas of ripe cherry and red pinot fruit that precede moderately complex and delicious middle weight flavors that possess good precision but not the depth of the best 1ers in the range. This is by no means simple but there is a dimension missing relative to the Les St. Georges for example. (89-91)/2019+

2009 Chambolle-Musigny “Haut Doix”: A seductive nose of sandalwood, spice and very fresh red currant aromas gives way to moderately complex and relatively fine middle weight flavors that ooze a discreet minerality on the harmonious, sappy and understated finish. This is very Chambolle in basic character and really very pretty. (90-92)/2019+

2009 Chambolle-Musigny “Amoureuses”: A highly complex, indeed kaleidoscopically so, nose of plum, violet, spice and red and blue pinot fruit complements to perfection the rich, generous and delicious flavors that do not, at least not at present, quite have the beguiling of the nose, all wrapped in a stylish, lingering and palate coating finish. This should be lovely and the minerality adds a bit of lift to the backend. (91-94)/2021+

2009 Vosne-Romanée “Suchots”: (from the upper portion of the vineyard). Reduction and plenty of wood influence make for a difficult to appreciate nose. By contrast, there is more to like with the rich, velvety and mouth coating flavors blessed with plenty of dry extract that buffers well the suave and mocha-infused finish. There is plenty of flesh and volume to the midpalate and once this is done with its youthful awkwardness, it should be excellent. (91-93)/2021+

2009 Vosne-Romanée “Malconsorts”: A spicy but reserved densely fruited nose exhibits notes of ripe black pinot andcassis aromas that are followed by rich, pure and palate staining flavors that possess plenty of grip and muscle, all wrapped in a long, serious, complex and gorgeously well balanced if quite firmly structured finale. In a word, terrific. (92-94)/2024+

2009 Vosne-Romanée “Gaudichots”: A highly floral and extremely expressive nose offers a cornucopia of spice nuances to the ripe, pure and airy red and black berry fruit aromas. The rich, intense and vibrant medium-bodied flavors exude a fine minerality on the composed and focused yet explosive finish that exhibits stunning length and a brilliant amount of underling tension that almost makes this seem as though it’s vibrating in the mouth. In brief, this is seriously impressive and among a short list of the very best 1ers of the 2009 vintage. (93-96)/2024+

2009 Corton-Bressandes: Light reduction cannot completely hide the red berry fruit, warm earth and wet stone aromas. There is good richness to the relatively refined and admirably pure broad-shouldered flavors that possess excellent precision and detail on the balanced, classy and hugely long finish. A classic Bressandes though note that patience will be required. (92-95)/2024+

2009 Corton-Renardes: A classic Renardes nose speaks of spice, earth, cassis, plum and plenty of the sauvage that also extends to the rich, full-bodied and velvety flavors that possess excellent power and muscle that culminate in a focused, palate staining and impressive long finish. This serious effort should age extremely well and moreover, be well worth the investment of your patience. (92-94)/2024+

2009 Clos St. Denis: (from 90+ year old vines). Reduction cannot totally hide the class of this extract-rich offering that completely buffers the firm structure that surfaces on the dazzlingly complex and persistent finish. This stylish effort is impeccably well-balanced and should amply reward 15 to 20 years of cellar time. (92-94)/2024+

2009 Clos de la Roche: Reduction. The broad-shouldered flavors are bigger, richer and deeper as the underlying material seems to have endless waves of depth on the extremely ripe and mocha-infused finish that delivers simply huge length. To its credit, this well-endowed effort underscores perfectly the difference between a fine Clos St. Denis and a great Clos de la Roche. Patience will also be required here. (93-95)/2024+

2009 Clos de Vougeot: Moderate reduction hides everything but the intense earthy character that also extends to the quite serious, precise and extract-rich flavors that are supported by phenolically mature and extremely firm tannins as well as an extremely ripe mocha-suffused and mouth coating finish that is youthfully austere. (91-94)/2024+

2009 Echézeaux: (from En Orveaux). A highly spiced nose of hoisin and anise adds breadth to the sexy blue and black pinot fruit aromas that give way to rich, sappy and mouth coating big-bodied flavors that possess excellent volume and plenty of mid-palate density before culminating in a mocha and oak-infused finish that exhibits a dusty quality. (90-93)/2021+

2009 Grands Echézeaux: A highly floral and equally spicy nose speaks of earth, red currant and plum aromas that complement the rich, intense and lightly mineral-inflected broad-scaled flavors that possess plenty of overt muscularity on the powerful, driving and palate staining finish. The tannins are quite evident and it will require upwards of 20 years for this to completely resolve the extremely firm tannic spine but it should be well worth the wait. (92-95)/2026+

2009 Charmes-Chambertin: (from both Charmes and Mazoyères). An earthy and extremely ripe nose of red berry liqueur aromas is very much in keeping with the sappy yet detailed and lightly mineral-inflected big-bodied flavors that are quite linear and focused on the lingering finish. It’s interesting as the texture here is completely different from that displayed by the Bonnes Mares, which is neither good nor bad though the underlying material is not quite as strong. (91-93)/2021+

2009 Mazis-Chambertin: (from both Mazis-Haut and Bas). Very mild reduction detracts only a bit from the otherwise intensely sauvage, earth and wild red berry fruit aromas. There is excellent richness yet fine detail to the mineral-driven, intense and superbly complex broad-based flavors that are underpinned by extremely firm yet ripe tannins and stunning length. I very much like this as it’s text book Mazis and should age superbly well. (93-95)/2026+

2009 Griotte-Chambertin: A more elegant if slightly less complex nose of very ripe red currant, plum, warm earth and subtle spice hints slides seamlessly into rich, generous and very fleshy flavors that are supported by notably finer tannins and excellent length. This doesn’t have the sheer depth and length of the amazing Mazis but I admire this for its understated class. (92-94)/2021+

2009 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze: Here the nose is similar to that of the Mazis though this is a bit spicier with plenty of the same sauvage character that bleeds over to the rich, supple, detailed and intensely mineral-driven big-bodied flavors that brim with dry extract on the restrained, focused and imposingly powerful finish. This should be fantastic in time as the balance and underlying sense of tension is marvelous. (93-95)/2026+

2009 Bonnes Mares: (from both Chambolle and Morey). Moderate reduction kills an evaluation of the nose. However there is marvelous density to the serious and muscular broad-shouldered flavors that brim with tannin buffering dry extract and flat out incredible length, indeed it’s possible that this, along with the Richebourg, possesses the longest finish of any wine in the range. A stunner of a Bonnes Mares built for the long haul. (93-96)/2026+

2009 Romanée St. Vivant: A mildly floral and intensely spicy nose features notes of violets, rose petal, hoisin, soy and anise that add excellent breadth to the red currant aromas. The rich, detailed and utterly seductive medium-bodied flavors possess striking complexity to the impressively long finish. As good as this is, and it is spectacular, it doesn’t quite have the sheer depth of material of the Richebourg even though it’s close. (92-95)/2024+

2009 Richebourg: A reserved and almost reluctant nose of elegant dried rose petal, violet, red berry liqueur and a wonderfully broad range of spice nuances. The minerally, rich and regally powerful broad-scaled flavors are taut and classy as the underlying tension is palpable on the precise, driving and explosively long and linear finish. This is quite youthfully austere at present and may remain that way for some years as the flavors seem quite introverted and backward today. But, given enough cellar time, this has the potential to be brilliant. (93-96)/2029+