THICK OR THIN? The 2003 and 2004 vintages present a stark choice for lovers of white Burgundy

By Bruce Sanderson

Fans of white Burgundy face an intereseting dilemma, if my recent tastings accurately reflect what’s now offer in retail shops and restaurants. Roughly half the wines in current release are from the hot 2003 vintage; the rest come from the cooler growing season of 2004. There couldn’t be more contrast between these two years and the wines they produced.