WINES AND SPIRITS: 25 Wines in 25 Years

98 Lucien Le Moine

2004 Corton Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne This precise evocation of Corton, from a west-facing limestone Pernand siope, starts small, behind spice and toasty oak, and grows slowly. A sense of limestone is what lasts, the wine opulent but restricted by its structure. Cellar it for a decade or more. (W&S 4/07)